When using consumer-grade hardware in a 19″ environment, sooner or later you will encounter certain obstacles. Many issues can be resolved remotely, whether via remote desktop, AnyDesk, or Teamviewer in the case of Windows with GUI, or via SSH for Linux.

Enterprise hardware offers more, for example IPMI. But how do you access the BIOS/UEFI on inexpensive consumer hardware without any peripherals?

This is where server consoles come into play. In principle, these are compact access solutions that offer a screen and a keyboard with or without an integrated mouse or replacement (touchpad). The signal sources can be switched back and forth between several devices, allowing easy access and configuration of everything.

Of course, something like this can be purchased as a finished product, but the price of the hardware is usually not reasonable. That’s why I built my own solution.

Components

Actually, not much is needed:

• A display that fits into a 19″ rack
• Keyboard and mouse or similar
• KVM switch* for switching between servers
• A base, e.g., a 19″ shelf

In my case, I continued to use the entire screen of the HP 17-by2132ng notebook, which is currently used as a low-power Proxmox server: It is controlled via eDP (LVDS used to be very common), and inexpensive controllers are available for this in the Far East.

Why this solution?
The panel is an energy-efficient and space-saving 17″ IPS LCD with a resolution of 1920×1080 pixels at 60 Hz with usable brightness, and it was left over anyway due to broken hinges on the notebook side. Especially since the entire part fits almost perfectly into a rack in terms of width.

Conceived, built.

First, I used a 19″ shelf in my now favorite color, light gray (RAL 7035), with a length of 750 mm (minimum, adjustable) as a base and determined the positioning of everything.

I ultimately used the following components:

• The entire screen of the HP notebook, webcam with ribbon cables and antennas have been removed
• Screen controller including matching power supply
• Flat stereo speaker
• Quad HDMI+USB KVM switch
• HP keyboard and mouse
• Quad USB power supply
• Double safety socket
• C14 socket
• Some Velcro cable ties and small parts (screws, nuts, etc.)

After some CAD and 3D printing, the finished result looks like this:

Thoughts on the design

• A 230V / 10A rocker switch is integrated into the left “foot” of the screen mount as the main switch.
• The right “foot” has an oval opening to allow easy access for the USB cables from the keyboard and mouse.
• All devices are fixed in housings that are screwed onto a gray-painted 20 mm multiplex strip.
• When closed, the screen also functions as a dust cover for the mouse and keyboard (the mouse is stored on the keyboard).
• The speaker receives its analog stereo signal from the LCD controller, which splits the audio signal from the HDMI input. This is convenient, saves cables, and provides sound output.
• The entire project is powered by a single power cable and switched on or off with a single switch.
• Cable management is provided in the form of printed clips screwed into the multiplex.

It is questionable whether four separate servers will be sufficient for me. On the other hand, I also own enterprise servers, and these can be managed adequately with IPMI. The current plan is to connect the three Proxmox servers and the Proxmox backup server there.

Der Beitrag Low-budget server console with a touch of upcycling erschien zuerst auf flohs blog.

To be truly stylish, this PC should actually be operated on six screens, which can be switched between three 19“ 1280 x 1024 4:3 IPS monitors and three 21.5” 1920 x 1080 16:9 IPS or VA monitors. One “old school” and one “modern.”

Unfortunately, only a single Full HD monitor is currently connected to the PC due to space constraints. This will certainly change once we move into our own home.

Mouse and keyboard

When it comes to keyboards, there’s really only one choice that fits the bill – a Logitech G19. It has drivers for Windows XP, and this keyboard is simply good and nostalgic. The small screen is a nice addition, and I’ve always been a fan of Logitech keyboards anyway.

When it comes to the mouse, Logitech is the only option for me, specifically a Logitech MX518. Alternatively, I might consider something from Microsoft, but only in an emergency.

Audio

A smaller 2.1 system would be perfectly adequate for a PC. Anything more than that would be excessive for a PC in my opinion. Here too, I can only recommend Logitech, for example a Z625*, which I have been using on my main PC for many years.

Der Beitrag <h5>Retro-XP-PC #11: </h5><h3><b>Peripherals</b></h3> erschien zuerst auf flohs blog.

Anyone who owns a mouse and uses it extensively will have encountered the same problem over the last 10+ years: at some point, a single click turns into a double click. Not always, but more and more often. It may sound harmless at first, but it’s not—you can no longer use your computer properly. Actions that require you to hold down the mouse button are particularly problematic. Impossible.

The reason is easy to find: manufacturers, especially of expensive gaming mice, use very cheap buttons that produce these double clicks as a final symptom of wear and tear. My partner and I have been using a Roccat Kone XTD and a Roccat Kone Pure gaming mouse for many years, respectively, which were not exactly cheap. We are also very happy with them; the sampling rate is good and the lighting is nice. If only it weren’t for the double clicks, which started to occur more and more frequently after 3-4 years of use. Later, this even happened with the right mouse button.

I have also experienced this problem with various models from Logitech (from $10 to high-end, it doesn’t matter), Microsoft, and Mad-Catz.

Repair?

Actually, the fix is very simple. Unfortunately, gaming mice are more often than not held together by plastic clips, which makes disassembly very difficult. Added to this are RGB lighting, cable routing, and adhesive. The process with the Roccat Kone XTD was anything but pleasant, but it was doable.

I have now repaired more than 20 mice in this way. One side effect is that the clicking sound is louder and you have to press a little harder to click. It has been over six years since I repaired the Kone XTD and Kone Pure, and they still click very well, despite even increased use. I think the plastic of the housing will wear through before the problem occurs again.

The following tools should be at hand:

• Soldering iron, preferably with medium power (no SMD!)
• Small flat-nose or needle-nose pliers
• Slotted screwdriver
• Small vise
• One or more sewing needles
• Bit set for disassembling the mouse

The only spare parts needed are new buttons, which are available in various quality grades. I can recommend the well-known manufacturer Omron, which also produces the often inferior originals. I used the D2FC-F-K model in the “50M” quality grade, which stands for 50 million possible clicks. The originals are often 1M, 2M, or 5M buttons. I bought these on AliExpress*; they are significantly more expensive on eBay or Amazon.

⧉ Omron

Let’s go…

First, the mouse must be disassembled until you are holding the actual circuit board with the buttons in your hands. Then, generously tin the three contacts of both buttons with new solder*, also so that the button is heated through.

Next, secure the button with either a small vise or pliers and pull on the circuit board while moving the soldering iron back and forth between all three contacts. After a short time, the button will slip out of the circuit board and can be discarded.

Once this has been done for both buttons, insert a suitable sewing needle into the circuit board hole from the underside (to prevent damage to the conductor tracks when lifting!) for each contact in turn and heat the solder residues. This reshapes the hole into a round shape, which makes it easier to insert the new button.

Now insert a new button through the holes in the circuit board (pay attention to the alignment!) and press it firmly against the circuit board. Then fix it in place with new solder, starting with the middle contact. Once you have done this with both buttons, you can solder the whole thing properly and reassemble it. Done!

Test

Over the years, this problem has occurred frequently with all kinds of mouse models. For testing purposes, I created a small program back in 2018 that can be used to test mice – Download (Windows x86, ZIP-Archive).

Der Beitrag The problem with low-quality switches in expensive mice (and how to fix it!) erschien zuerst auf flohs blog.